Feeding

Basic Seed Mix

I use Verselle Laga 50/50 Budgie mix for all birds. 
If you run your cursor over the image and click, it will show the seed in more detail.
I’ve tried many seeds over the years, the best being Trill, but that is not available now. VL is an exceptionally clean seed, I’ve never experienced any dust since I started using it. I spoke to a few breeders in this area and they all recommended it, so I bought some and haven’t bothered to look around anymore. It’s about average price for a 20 kilo sack so that’s all good in my book.

 

My “Tonic” Seed Mix

You will need to run your cursor over the image and click to get a clearer view of the mixture.
I don’t use an actual tonic seed as such, but what I do use is a Versele Laga Prestige Aviary mix and a little more expensive than standard 50/50.
This is mixed with Trapping Oil at the rate of 5ml to approx 1 litre of seed. It is mixed thoroughly in a sealed container, you’ll be surprised how such a little amount covers all of the seed grains. It is fed to the birds both in the main flight and breeding cages, although I try not to give too much of it to the birds, they obviously prefer this mix to standard stuff, but it would work out pretty expensive to use this all of the time.
This is the composition of the mix;
Yellow Millet  31%
Canary seed  23.5%
Rapeseed 17%
Peeled Oats 7%
Yellow Panicum 5%
Wild seeds 5%
Red Millet 5%
Linseed 4.5%
Red Panicum 0.5%
Hempseed 0.5%

 

 

 

The Trapping oil is packed full of nourishment and used by pigeon breeders, it has a lovely aniseed aroma. It is used for generally settling birds down for handling.
Typical ingredients of trapping oils:
helianthus annuus oil,
pure aniseed oil

Groats

My Softfood Mix

I’ve been toying with my softfood mix for a long time now and I’m still not too sure if this is what I really want – I’m sure I need more vitamins and proteins in the recipe.
My big problem is that I am dead against giving too many extra’s in the way of supplements. I’m a confused as well because I have come to believe that they are necessary in some form to breed the sort of youngsters that win shows nowadays. On the other hand, too much in the way of chemicals must surely have a detrimental effect on the birds health and subsequently the birds grow into what we need them to be, but at what cost because a birds life is not very long these days as well.
So where is the balance, and what do I go with?
“Not sure”, is still my answer as I’m writing this in September 2016.
With this information, right now, here is the recipe I use now  ……… but it will undoubtedly change again.

Drinking Water

 My regime for drinking water is similar to all other types of feeding really, that is, it’s always up for modification.
I use a dilute Calcivet as the main solution 4 days a week, Aviherb for 2 days and 1 day tap water. Very occasionally with breeding pairs I will sling in 1 day of cider vinegar solution to help clear the birds gut. All water is from the tap and not bought in bottles.

 

 

Grit

Nothing special here, only that I prefer to use Oyster grit as opposed to anything else. I believe, right or wrong, that it’s  a more natural material for the birds. I try to get this grit in larger pieces than the photo shows you but I can very often find it, so this finer graded grit is OK. 
I do not offer this to the birds at the feeding station on the inside flight where all of the other seeds etc are given, I add some Murphy’s minerals and dried seaweed, then sprinkle it on the outside flight floor. The birds are often picking the stones for grit so this is a more healthy option and it stays dry. The dangers of this practice is of course fouling from mice that might get into the flight, however, I’ve been doing this for 3 years now and not come a cropper so far – but it’s another risk that I take in the set-up.

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